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Installing the GPS/Scanner.

The Garmin Street Pilot was the obvious choice for use in my Expedition. It features:
    12 Channel Reception
    Built-in Basemap
    20 Routes with 30 Waypoints each
    100 Stand-alone Waypoints
    Uploadable maps from MapSource CD's
    16hr Battery Life (6 AA's)
    1.2lbs
    IPX7 Waterproof Standard (Submerged to 1 meter for 30 minutes)
    2.4 x 3.5 Display size
    475 Tracklog points (the number of 'breadcrumbs' it can remember)
    Multi-Level Brightness (some units only have on vs. off)
    External Ant. Hookup (key for any large vehicle, especially SUV's
    Speed alarm
    Price - $636 (retail, your local Fry's may have it for much less - mine was $450)
Keep in mind that you need to tailor your GPS to your use. A hand held GPS is convenient for hiking, but most likely will not have a basemap included, or have a backlight for night driving. While this unit is designed for a car, it is more than capable of use for hiking. That being said, I wouldn’t suggest this to anyone who wants it more for hiking than driving – only experienced hikers with extensive map knowledge (my Military map reading skills are perfect) would feel comfortable with this unit.

Some people have asked me why I didn’t get the Street Pilot III Colormap instead. It has many of the same abilities, but here are the drawbacks:
Same 12 channels, but 500 waypoints instead of 100. I’ve never come close to using all 100 waypoints, and I’ve driven 1000 mile days quite often on vacation.
50 Routes with automatically calculated turns. Ever drive to South Lake Tahoe? The unit would mark every hairpin turn and loss of signal (yes, you can lose a signal on Rt. 50 to Tahoe).
16 Color LCD, but only 1.8 x 3.4 Display size, and only 2 brightness levels Hard to read at night traveling at 75mph through the desert on Interstate 10.
Voice prompt alarms My radar detector talks enough as it is, imagine the uproar when you miss your turn while speeding!

The install of the GPS was actually VERY easy - I mounted mine in the pocket of the console, but attached to the forward vertical edge, so I can still put odds and ends in the pocket.  Having said that - don't even bother until you get a remote antennae.  Without it, your GPS won't work a good 50% of the time if it's located in the console.  Once you get the antennae:
1 - Purchase a bracket kit from Radio Shack (they have a bag of assorted brackets back by the car stereo kits).
2 - Mount the GPS swivel/quick disconnect mount to an angle bracket from the kit.  (Use the small detents on the bottom of the GPS swivel/quick disconnect mount as screw holes.)

3 - In the center of the console pocket, align the unit and mark 2 screw holes at least 3/4" below the lip.

4 - Drill and mount the bracket to the console pocket.

5 - Run the power cord to your power source (see 'Mounting an Auxiliary Fuse Box')
6 - Run the antennae cord from the center of the dash low on the window, all the way down the driver side door, under the dash and to the console.  Stow any excess under the dash with zip ties.
7 - Mount the antennae to the window plate and mount it to the window using the suction cups.  (I advise against using the magnet and mounting it outside the vehicle - teenagers love to try to steal it)

8 - Connect the antennae and power cords and you are done!

The scanner was a late addition...I use it strictly for entertainment purposes.  Again, the install is very easy, but don't try it until you get an external antennae.  Once you do:
1 - Use another bracket from the kit you purchased at Radio Shack (use the same size you used for the GPS).

2 - Mark the mount points on the inside driver side of the console pocket.

3 - Drill the holes and pre-die them by screwing the mount screws in.  Make sure they are short enough that they don't hit the driver side of the console.
4 - Remove the belt clip screws from the scanner, and place the long end of the bracket between the belt clip and the scanner housing:
   
    and replace the belt clip screws:
   
5 - Remove the mounting bracket screws from the console and mount the scanner.

6 - On the rear driver side window (the one in the cargo area), pull the interior trim back part way (open the rear driver side door, fold the seat down, and pull the door seal away from the fender - the trim will already have about a 1/2" clearance).
7 - Reach in the trim FROM THE FRONT SIDE and rout the mounting box for your antennae (I used a window mount antennae so I wouldn't have to drill any holes - it's held on perfectly).
8 - Climb in the back and mount the box as far up and FORWARD as you can, away from the solid black border, and use the double-sided tape to mount the box to the window.  (BE CAREFUL, ONCE THE BOX IS ON THE WINDOW, IT IS VERY HARD TO REMOVE! - GET THE POSITION RIGHT THE FIRST TIME!)

9 - Route the antennae cable down the rear of the back door frame, under the plastic panel that protects the rocker panel, and to the driver side seat belt mount, then route the wire under the driver seat.  Replace the interior trim panel and door seal.
10 - Grab the business end of the cable, and route it under the console, up the front of it and then back to the antennae port of the scanner.  Coil the excess under the driver seat and secure it using zip ties.  (MAKE SURE THAT THE SEAT HAS FULL TRAVEL WITHOUT BINDING THE ANTENNAE WIRE OR STRETCHING IT!  IF YOU HAVE POWER SEATS, MOVE THE SEAT TO ALL EXTREMES OF MOTION [FORWARD AND UP, FORWARD AND DOWN, REAR AND UP, REAR AND DOWN, FORWARD TILT UP AND DOWN AND REAR TILT UP AND DOWN] TO ENSURE THAT YOU DON'T CUT THE ANTENNAE WIRE)
11 - Mount the outer antennae directly over the inner box.
12 - Route the power wires along the antennae wire until you get to the under -side of the driver side dash - then run it under the dash to the power source (again, see 'Mounting an auxiliary fuse box').